Sunday, July 15, 2012

The good looking men of the Punjab

Call me biased, but seriously, I think the Sikhs are a group of very, very good looking men :-) The two photos below are from the Sees Ganj Gurudwara in Old Delhi.


Broad shouldered, tall, and rugged, with the turbans adding drama to their faces. What's not to like? :)

And they age wonderfully well, their faces still reflecting a zest and joie de vivre that is famously celebrated in their songs and dance.


Have you seen a bhangda dance? The sheer energy of it? It's impossible to not enjoy it. Originally a harvest dance only done by men, these days women do it as well.


Bhangra is popular wherever there is a Punjabi diaspora. In both the UK as well as the USA, there are several dance groups, with fiercely contested competitions. The video below is of an entire ensemble, with both male and female performers at a competition. 


Bollywood is full of Punjabis. The iconic good-looking boy from Punjab was Dharmendra, who  (you will agree after you see the photo below) was quite something. His was the sort of face that could make staid matrons forget themselves :)


Strangely for a Punjabi though, Dharmendra couldn't dance. He produced some strapping sons, all of whom also made it to the movies. They couldn't dance either.

Much before Dharmendra, there were several legendary good-looking Punjabis in Bollywood. The Kapoor clan started with the dashing Prithviraj....


...and moved on to produce Shashi Kapoor with the gorgeous eyelashes.


Apart from the Kapoors, there were the Anands, the Malhotras, the Sahnis and the Chopras. Some of them made it to the movies was because they had very fair skin (in India that's a great substitute for good looks). Some made it because they were more romantic than rugged, and that's what the audience wanted at that time. And some made it, I'll never understand why :)

The Punjabi guy that didn't quite make it to the Bollywood super-star league was Kabir Bedi. A seriously handsome man, he managed to make the crossover to Italian television and to Hollywood instead (remember the  turbanned villain in Octopussy?).


Among modern Bollywood heroes, Akshay Kumar is from the Punjab and pretty good-looking. I'm not sure who else deserves to be in my Hall of Fame :) So your nominations are welcome!!

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Tiger sighting at Ranthambhore - May 2012

The summer months of April to June are the best time to visit Ranthambhore. The undergrowth is sparse, water sources are limited, and the sighting is therefore much better. 

We did 3 safaris and thoroughly enjoyed all three. We stayed at Khem Villas, and can't say enough good things about it. Their commitment to the forests and to the people of the land is incredible, and the work they do to protect the whole ecology of the place is admirable.

On our very first safari, into the tiny Zone 1, we spotted this beautiful tigress:

Side view of T-39, in Zone 1
She is a very young tigress about 5 years old, and she has just given birth to a cub. She is quite thin right now, what with looking after the cub as well as hunting. When we saw her, she had hunted two days ago, with a successful deer kill. Now she was on the prowl again (but you can see she is hungry and her stomach is absolutely shrunken). On a close up of the photo you can see teats, she has been nursing. She is very graceful.

Tiger on path - T-39 goes in search of water
We were lucky she was walking towards us! The photographers in the other jeeps were behind her and could get only butt-shots :) The forest has shed a lot of its leaves and the undergrowth has dried up.

T-39 alert!
She stood, alert and poised, when she saw some prey. It was amazing, the transformation from sleepy walk to alert awareness.

Tiger hidden! T-39 walks into shrubbery
After a while she walked away from the road, beautifully camouflaged in the forest. If this had been winter we could not have seen anything! Because it was summer, we could follow her, and later we saw her emerge from a ravine and climb up a small hillock.

If you are visiting Ranthambhore in winter, the chances of sighting drop substantially. Can you imagine the photo above, if it were full of dense green shrubbery? How would you even know that the tiger was there ! Fortunately, tigers love walking on the forest roads, because it is easier on their paws. So the paw-prints can give you clues about where they are. After that, it is just luck and perseverance!

Ranthambhore is more than just tigers, though. Just being there amidst the jungle is very soul-satisfying. Learning about the ecology of the place, the BALANCE of everything, the seasons, the way the food chain works, the birds of each season...all of it made me feel a sense of peace.

The dhok, the most widespread tree in Ranthambhore
The dhok is particularly well-adapted to the harsh climate of this region, shedding its leaves to survive the summer. It has a hair-trigger response to rains, and begins to sprout leaves with the first few drops. While we  were there, it rained very briefly (unseasonal) and we saw the trees already with their opportunistic response :)

Not all parts of the jungle are dry - there are zones which are green and beautiful. 
Green lush areas of Zone 5 - very refreshing
This photo was taken at the far end of Zone 5, near Bakola. Zone 5 has bone ratting rides up the hill before you get to this ravine with water :) The temperature here is at least 2-3 degrees lower than the rest of the forest, with a moist inviting forest smell. We saw paradise flycatcher, golden oriole, and black-tailed mongoose, I didn't want to leave! 

Zones 2 and 3 are also very scenic, with large lakes. Here you can see not only a lot of waterbirds, but also a wide range of animals. 

Female sambar in Rajbagh lake - Zone 3 
Sambar are good swimmers and often feed on the grasses and water plants. They have good sense of smell and hearing but poor eyesight. The safari path skirts the lake (see jeep in photo), so you are treated to a beautiful vista, and you can really get a sense of peace here if you switch off the engines and sit quietly for a while.

While the female sambar remained unconcerned, nearby, the stags were in a confrontational mood:
Male Sambar fighting - Zone 3
Surprise information: they make tiny mewing sounds when they fight!

We were also treated to this almost comic confrontation scene between one macaque and a whole group of langurs.
Ruffian Macaque and Lady Langurs :) 
This single male macaque (you can see him in the centre of the photo) managed to scatter a group of langurs, mostly females with young ones. I was surprised. There were at least 20 langurs, but they all moved away. Only one older female stood her ground, hissing and snarling at him. One young male tried to stand up to him, then got the fright of his life and bounded away into the trees!

I have lots more photos of this Ranthambhore trip, but this blog entry will become too long if I put up everything. Maybe another post, another time!



Saturday, June 9, 2012

Malai or paneer? I can't tell!

I clicked this photo outside the Fatehpuri Masjid in Chandni Chowk, but we were walking past too quickly and I couldn't tell if it was paneer (cottage cheese) or malai (cream). Do you know? I assume it is paneer, but someone told me it's malai (hard to believe?).


And if it is malai, then why is he selling it in giant slabs like this? What do you make with it?

Monday, June 4, 2012

The Secretariat Building and the people who really run the country!

I was driving towards the President's House compound, when I saw the North Block of the Secretariat decorated with the familiar colours of saffron, white and green. Against the blue sky, the building looked very nice! 


Every time I look at the Secretariat, I wonder what actually goes on in there. So this time I decided to read up a little. 
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The Secretariat is made up of twin buildings -  North Block and South Block (see photo below). The first thing I wanted to find out was why these two buildings are called the "Secretariat". It turns out that the folks in these buildings actually provide secretarial functions to the Cabinet. They convene meetings, circulate agendas and papers, record discussions, etc. The Cabinet Secretariat is the custodian of the papers of the Cabinet meetings (hey, *someone's* got to do the filing!).


But it's absolutely wrong to think of the Secretariat as a just bunch of paper-pushers. They provide Advice to the Ministers, and are responsible for inter-ministerial/inter-departmental co-ordination, as well as dispute resolution. Each of the two Secretariat buildings has 4 floors, and about 1000 rooms.  So now you can imagine what goes on inside - a lot of folks doing a lot of meetings and paperwork  and ego-management! 

The numero uno of the Secretariat is the Cabinet Secretary, and he/she is also the head of the Civil Services. Lord Willingdon, who was Viceroy of India from 1931 to 1936, started the practice of having his Private Secretary by his side at his meetings. Later in 1935, it actually became a formal role. 

Today the Cabinet Secretary is India's most powerful bureaucrat and the "right hand" man of the Prime Minister of India. The current Cabinet Secretary is Shri Ajit Seth, pictured below on the day he assumed office. He looks very calm and capable, doesn't he? I'm not surprised.


Kings and noblemen have always had administrators, capable guys who ran their kingdoms while they went off to war or to pay respects at some court or the other. The Chinese created the world's first meritocracy, with their famous 2500-year old Imperial Examinations system. They selected a group of intellectuals based solely on merit, who administered the country while the Emperors focused on political matters.


Closer home, many Indian Maharajahs had able scribes and administrators. The founder of the Walled City of Jaipur, Sawai Jai Singh (1688-1743) was ably assisted by his Diwan Vidyadhar. Sawai Jai Singh made it obligatory for his thakurs (nobles) to build their houses in the new walled city of Jaipur. But it was Vidyadhar who ran the show. He enforced the collection of 10% of the thakurs’ income to cover costs of building their houses. Vidyadhar also implemented several rules to ensure conformity in the design and execution of Jai Singh's planned city. As several documents of the time attest "Do as Vidyadhar says" used to be a routine part of the orders signed by Jai Singh.


Under the East India Company, appointments to administrative posts were originally by "patronage". In other words, if you wanted to become a clerk or factor, you needed social contacts. A lot of younger sons who could not inherit estates in England tried building their fortunes around the world using this system of patronage. 
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But the East India Company was so impressed with the Chinese imperial examination system that in 1806 they established a college near London (Haileybury) to create a professional team of administrators. It was quite a departure from the norm! Pressure to create a merit-based system came from Thomas Taylor Meadows, who served as the Consul in Canton, China. He argued that "England will certainly lose every colony she possesses unless she adopts some system of impartial elevation of colonists to the posts and honours at the disposal of the crown". 


Eventually an open competitive examination replaced the system of appointment by patronage. The original exams were confined to those branches of knowledge to which, in the words of Baron Macaulay, "it is desirable that English gentlemen should pay some attention". This included history, jurisprudence, finance, commerce and languages. Macaulay also suggested that a considerable number of the men selected should be those "who have taken the first degree in arts at Oxford or Cambridge".

And so it was that the "Oxbridge" men came to dominate the Indian civil services, a trend that strengthened after the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, when the East India Company's rule ended and the crown took over.

The examination system is alive and kicking even today. This year over 200,000 people wrote the Indian civil service entrance exams, and finally 900 people were selected. The top two slots went to women, by the way. I took a look at the profiles of the top 25 candidates in the exams, just to figure out who the future bureaucrats of this country are. And I found a big mix of people from all walks of life: they include alumni from some premier educational institutions including AIIMS, IIM, IIT and the London School of Economics. They come from diverse family backgrounds - farmers, teachers, businessmen, army personnel, low and middle level government servants, doctors, advocates, professors and civil servants. 

Sheena Agarwal, this year's topper. Photo from CNN-IBN Report

So these, then, are the people we will see inside the Secretariat in a couple of decades! In recent press interviews, they seem idealistic and willing to make a difference. Will they still be idealistic in 20 years, when they assume positions of significant influence? 

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Fatehpur Sikri through Russian and American eyes

In the late 1870's, Vassily Vereshchagin, Russian soldier, adventurer and painter extraordinaire, visited India. He spent 4 years wandering through India, visiting Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, the Himalayas and Tibet. 

When he returned to Paris, where he was based, he produced this wonderful painting of the mosque at Fatehpur Sikri (City of Victory). This has to be the most gorgeous mosque wall I have ever seen!

The painting is called "etyud iz puteshestviya v Indiyu"  (Sketch from a trip to India)
Vassily Vereschagin - Dated  1880  on  the  reverse - Oil  on  canvas
Image  size: 14.5 inches by 17.75 inches

I know everyone says Shah Jahan (who later built the Taj Mahal) was the greatest among the Mughal builders, but this mosque at Fatehpur Sikri, built by Shah Jahan's grandfather Akbar the Great, is really something! Frankly, given the scale of building at Fatehpur Sikri - and the amazingly short duration in which it was achieved - I am tempted to call Akbar the greatest of the Mughal builders. 

For those who don't know the history, here it is in three lines: In 1571, a grateful Emperor Akbar decided to build a city at the site where the Sufi saint Salim Chishthi lived. The saint had successfully predicted the birth of Jahangir, Akbar’s much-longed for son and heir. The Great Mughal took personal interest in the design and construction of his new city, bringing into it, dramatic combinations of Persian, Hindu and Jain architecture. 

The city was built in just 15 years - an amazing feat. In 1585, the English traveller Ralph Fitch described Fatehpur Sikri as "considerably larger than London and more populous". The City comprised a series of palaces, public buildings and mosques. There were living areas not only for the members of the Mughal court, but also for the army, tradesmen, merchants and ordinary folk. 

At the heart of the city was the Jama Masjid mosque (the painting above by Vereshchagin is of the innermost part of the mosque, the mihrab where prayers are offered). The compound of the mosque had a marble shrine dedicated to Salim Chishthi. Here is another painting, this time by an American who visited Sikri. Edwin Lord Weeks was born in Boston, and also travelled extensively, including 2 long visits to India in the 1880s and 1890s. 

Festival at Fatehpur Sikri, by Edwin Weeks
Image size: 29.13 inch wide x 24.02 inch high
The image shows the marble tomb of Salim Chishti

Even to someone who doesn't understand art, the similarities in the painting styles of the Russian and the American are visible, aren't they? Both paintings are influenced by Jean-Leon Gerome, the Parisian Orientalist. Vereshchagin studied under Gerome in Paris, although he later developed a divergent style of his own. Edwin Weeks applied, but did not initially get admitted to Gerome's atelier, and studied under Leon Bonnat, a friend of Gerome (who also travelled with Gerome to North Africa and painted scenes of bazaars etc). 

For these Orientalists, who wanted realism, colour and vibrancy, Africa, the Middle East and India provided fertile grounds for their paintbrush. If you want a closer look, you can check this link to Edwin Week's works. 

Happily, most of Fatehpur Sikri is well-preserved even today, thanks to being "abandoned" by Akbar after just 10 years. Akbar wanted to focus on his war against the Afghans, and he chose a new capital, Lahore, in present day Pakistan. So Fatehpur Sikri remained intact, and unused...lucky for us!

See the photos below - you can compare it with the paintings above, and see that much of it is still available to us, although of course, the painter's eye and craft bring a sense of aesthetics that the camera cannot!

The mihrab at Jama Masjid, Fatehpur Sikri
Photo by Saumil U Shah (check out also his great collection of Agra photos)

Quwwal musicians outside the tomb of Sufi mysic Salim Chishti
Photo from Wikipedia

And before we end this post, don't you want to see what these painters themselves looked like? Here's the Russian Vereshchagin - interesting looking man, no? Just what I imagined! Dramatic and larger than life!


And here is Edwin Lord Weeks:


Don't let the boring portrait fool you, though. Both men were adventurers, setting out to see distant lands and places in an era when travel was far more difficult than it is now! Edwin Weeks, for instance, travelled by ship, train, horses and camels all over the Middle East, and camped where he could. Thankfully, his paintings of Indian life brought him fame both in France and America. He was thus eventually able to afford a splendid residence with a huge atelier in Paris. I don't particularly like starving artist stories, so I am very pleased to know that he actually enjoyed commercial success! :) 

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

The love-poetry of ancient South India


Frankly, I am not very big on poems. But the ancient Sangam poetry of South India is simply amazing.

Why? Not because it is richly evocative of the beautiful South Indian landscape. And not because it is full of stunning metaphor.

To me Sangam poetry is amazing because it represents a truly secular ancient Indian literature. Frankly, I'm a little tired of hearing that Indian art is primarily religious. Sangam poetry is not! And it is a huge body of work.

These glorious poems, composed as early as 2500 years ago, freely speak of love and longing, of people and their motivations, of daily life, war, peace, shyness, beauty, desire, infidelity, anxiety, parting and sorrow ... it is universal poetry, that reaches out directly to every human. And yet it is so erudite! So well written! So in tune with nature, so beautiful and appealing. How rare, to find a jewel like this!


See this poem, for example, of a woman beset by doubt. Having given her body, she worries her lover may not be true to her:

What she said: 
No one was there but he,
                                the Thief.
If he denies it, what shall I do?
Only a heron was witness
                 its thin gold legs like millet stalks
                 it was eyeing the araal fish,
                 in the gliding water
on the day
he took me.

Stunning, no? You can almost see the riverside seduction, hear the soft water flowing, and picture the unconcerned bird, looking for prey.

Here is another one, this time by the woman's friend, who comforts her.

What the friend said:
Of course
he doesn't know how you pine for him.
Your young lover from the mountains
             where the green stemmed bamboo grows,
             so springy that if you bend it back
             it flashes upward to touch the heavens
             as swift as a spirited horse
             when its tether is loosed.
But
he loves you too
your radiant beauty captivates him
and he frets like a bull calf
tied up in his stall
when the spring comes.

What wonderful words of comfort. You can picture the young lover, impatient, chafing (perhaps work keeps him away?). You can visualize the hilly forest land from where he comes. And look how beautifully the poem uses the flexible and strong green bamboo as a metaphor for the virile young lover!

Sangam war-poetry is no less beautiful than its love-songs. Pride and beauty, strength and glory, tragedy and futility, all of it is expressed in these poems. See this one, for example - it is a song of lament on the death of a chieftain:

On the death of Anci, the bard lamented thus:
If he found a little liquor,
he would give it to us.

If he had more,
he would drink happily
while we sang.
Where is he now?

If he had even a little rice,
he shared it
in many plates.
Where is he now?

He gave us
all the flesh
on the bones.
Where is he now?

Wherever spear and arrow flew,
he was there.
Where is he now?

With his palms scented
with lemon grass,
he caressed my hair
smelling of meat.
Where is he now?

The spear that pierced his chest
pierced at once
the wide eating bowls
of great and famous minstrels,
pierced many begging palms,

and, dimming the images in the eyes
of men he sheltered,
it went right through the subtle tongues
of poets
skilled in the search
for good words.

Where is he now,
father, mainstay,
king?
Where is he now?

No more,
no singers any more
nor anyone to give anything
to singers.

As in the cold waters
jalap flowers blossom,
large, full of honey,
but die untouched, unworn,

there are many now living
without giving
one thing
to others.

If you have heard the weeping and lamenting of women in Tamil Nadu, you will no doubt see how closely this poem resembles reality. It gave me goosebumps, actually.

Sangam poetry is written in Tamil, but the "Tamilakam" area that the poetry refers to includes most of South India (Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh), Sri Lanka and the Lakshdweep islands. All the varied scenery of these lands feature in the poetry -  flowering mountains, lush waterfalls, forests with elephants and tigers, rivers, fertile fields and a bountiful coastline. In fact, the poetry itself is classified into "types" based on five broad types of  geographical divisions of the land.

1) the hills (kurinji) - the hills contains scenes of poems on pre-nupital love, the lover is often a man with a tall spear, from the mountain
2) the dry lands (palai) - these provide the backdrop to poems of separation and distress
3) the jungle and woodland (mullai) - poems which contain hunting expeditions, or describe the brief parting of lovers
4) the cultivated plains (marudam) - these contain scenes of post-nuptial love or the wiles of courtesans, and scenes of sieges
5) the coast (neydal) - scenes of pitched battle are described on the coast, and also there are poems with songs of fishermen's wives parted from their lords

Each region has its own appropriate flowers, animals and people; and so the poetry weaves all of those into the theme in a beautiful way. Every poem is classified thus, and that is what makes Sangam unique among world literature.

I said earlier that Sangam poetry is secular, not religious. That doesn't mean there are no references to Gods in the entire Sangam literature. The warriors pray to Lord Murugan, God with the spear (vel), guardian of the mountain tribes. But that is not an over-riding theme, blotting out other secular aspects.

I could go on and on, writing more about the Sangam period, it's landscape and its characteristics, but in these days of wiki and what not, I am sure you will find everything you need quite easily. If you want to read some poems online, this is a good link: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/hansens/Kuruntogai/Home.Html

Discovering the love-poems of South India has opened my eyes afresh to the beauty of the land, and the glory of its ancient people. I have been literally drowning in shringara rasa, to tell the truth. I hope you enjoy discovering Sangam literature as much I am doing now!

Monday, February 27, 2012

e-Rick in Delhi

I was at India Gate yesterday when I spotted a group of people fussing over something. There was a big reflector screen, and on one side of it, there were a group of guys standing around, setting up a shoot.

On the other side of the screen, I spotted several young guys craning their necks at something. I'm all of five feet tall, so I couldn't see past the crowd.

"What's going on?" I asked one of the guys. "Shooting chal raha hai", he said, in the satisfied manner of someone who has just stated the obvious to an idiot.

A couple of bystanders rallied around to provide more information. "Riya Sen is here" said one. "And so is Aarya Babbar", chimed another. Oh goodie, I thought, a couple of starlets. So I went up to have a closer look.

I found Riya Sen sitting around, texting someone, impervious to the hubub around her. Aarya Babbar had disappeared, no doubt to have tea somewhere. 


She was wearing a very short skirt, so the organisers had oh-so-thoughtfully placed a thermocol screen to prevent her thighs from being burnt to a crisp by the stares. And although she wore a halter neck blue thingy, she had temporarily chosen to wear a jacket to hide her shoulders. Very sensible. It's tough being a star, I tell you :)

Like all shoots, I knew there would be interminable waiting while things were set up. I didn't want to hang around with the crowd. It was a pleasant sunny winter morning, so I left Riya Sen to enjoy her texting, and wandered around a bit more.

And look what I found - the e-Rick, an electric propulsion vehicle that is supposed to usher in a new generation of rickshaws in Delhi. This is what they were filming. 


Maybe they were going to have Riya lean against this thing stylishly and say something green and politically correct :) The seats are the back are tiny, and I can only imagine what fun the audience would have if she tried to actually sit in it wearing that short skirt. 

The e-Rick, in case you want to know, is being  touted as the greenest thing the city has seen. They have a horrendously slow website, in case you want to look it up. It's full of useless animations, and you have to hunt like crazy for anything remotely useful or practical.

When is the e-Rick coming? Is is going to be used all over Delhi? We last heard about the e-Rick during the Commonwealth Games. After 20 minutes on their website, I have no clue what they are planning, but it looks like this thing is back again in a new avatar. There are many tantalising hints on the website, a long list of areas that are going to be covered in "Phase 1", and some hypothetical route maps. But like all infrastructure things in India, there is no date. Do any of you know more about this?

I am waiting to see how the city's matrons and big-bellied Sardars are going to fit their plump Punjabi bottoms into this contraption :) :) It looks like it will keel over any moment, doesn't it?

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Delhi Magic on Hindustan Times

My phone has been ringing non-stop this morning. Today's Hindustan Times carries a Delhi Magic listing. 

I'm surprised at the response, actually. Firstly, I hadn't quite realised how much power the newspapers have, even though we live in the era of television. Secondly, I didn't realise there was so much "pent-up demand" for bazaar walks among  Delhi wallas :)

We have quite a few walks coming up, so I will post some walk schedules on the Delhi Magic facebook page.

I've "cut-pasted" the relevant bits of the HT story into a single box below.