Tuesday, March 6, 2012

The love-poetry of ancient South India


Frankly, I am not very big on poems. But the ancient Sangam poetry of South India is simply amazing.

Why? Not because it is richly evocative of the beautiful South Indian landscape. And not because it is full of stunning metaphor.

To me Sangam poetry is amazing because it represents a truly secular ancient Indian literature. Frankly, I'm a little tired of hearing that Indian art is primarily religious. Sangam poetry is not! And it is a huge body of work.

These glorious poems, composed as early as 2500 years ago, freely speak of love and longing, of people and their motivations, of daily life, war, peace, shyness, beauty, desire, infidelity, anxiety, parting and sorrow ... it is universal poetry, that reaches out directly to every human. And yet it is so erudite! So well written! So in tune with nature, so beautiful and appealing. How rare, to find a jewel like this!


See this poem, for example, of a woman beset by doubt. Having given her body, she worries her lover may not be true to her:

What she said: 
No one was there but he,
                                the Thief.
If he denies it, what shall I do?
Only a heron was witness
                 its thin gold legs like millet stalks
                 it was eyeing the araal fish,
                 in the gliding water
on the day
he took me.

Stunning, no? You can almost see the riverside seduction, hear the soft water flowing, and picture the unconcerned bird, looking for prey.

Here is another one, this time by the woman's friend, who comforts her.

What the friend said:
Of course
he doesn't know how you pine for him.
Your young lover from the mountains
             where the green stemmed bamboo grows,
             so springy that if you bend it back
             it flashes upward to touch the heavens
             as swift as a spirited horse
             when its tether is loosed.
But
he loves you too
your radiant beauty captivates him
and he frets like a bull calf
tied up in his stall
when the spring comes.

What wonderful words of comfort. You can picture the young lover, impatient, chafing (perhaps work keeps him away?). You can visualize the hilly forest land from where he comes. And look how beautifully the poem uses the flexible and strong green bamboo as a metaphor for the virile young lover!

Sangam war-poetry is no less beautiful than its love-songs. Pride and beauty, strength and glory, tragedy and futility, all of it is expressed in these poems. See this one, for example - it is a song of lament on the death of a chieftain:

On the death of Anci, the bard lamented thus:
If he found a little liquor,
he would give it to us.

If he had more,
he would drink happily
while we sang.
Where is he now?

If he had even a little rice,
he shared it
in many plates.
Where is he now?

He gave us
all the flesh
on the bones.
Where is he now?

Wherever spear and arrow flew,
he was there.
Where is he now?

With his palms scented
with lemon grass,
he caressed my hair
smelling of meat.
Where is he now?

The spear that pierced his chest
pierced at once
the wide eating bowls
of great and famous minstrels,
pierced many begging palms,

and, dimming the images in the eyes
of men he sheltered,
it went right through the subtle tongues
of poets
skilled in the search
for good words.

Where is he now,
father, mainstay,
king?
Where is he now?

No more,
no singers any more
nor anyone to give anything
to singers.

As in the cold waters
jalap flowers blossom,
large, full of honey,
but die untouched, unworn,

there are many now living
without giving
one thing
to others.

If you have heard the weeping and lamenting of women in Tamil Nadu, you will no doubt see how closely this poem resembles reality. It gave me goosebumps, actually.

Sangam poetry is written in Tamil, but the "Tamilakam" area that the poetry refers to includes most of South India (Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh), Sri Lanka and the Lakshdweep islands. All the varied scenery of these lands feature in the poetry -  flowering mountains, lush waterfalls, forests with elephants and tigers, rivers, fertile fields and a bountiful coastline. In fact, the poetry itself is classified into "types" based on five broad types of  geographical divisions of the land.

1) the hills (kurinji) - the hills contains scenes of poems on pre-nupital love, the lover is often a man with a tall spear, from the mountain
2) the dry lands (palai) - these provide the backdrop to poems of separation and distress
3) the jungle and woodland (mullai) - poems which contain hunting expeditions, or describe the brief parting of lovers
4) the cultivated plains (marudam) - these contain scenes of post-nuptial love or the wiles of courtesans, and scenes of sieges
5) the coast (neydal) - scenes of pitched battle are described on the coast, and also there are poems with songs of fishermen's wives parted from their lords

Each region has its own appropriate flowers, animals and people; and so the poetry weaves all of those into the theme in a beautiful way. Every poem is classified thus, and that is what makes Sangam unique among world literature.

I said earlier that Sangam poetry is secular, not religious. That doesn't mean there are no references to Gods in the entire Sangam literature. The warriors pray to Lord Murugan, God with the spear (vel), guardian of the mountain tribes. But that is not an over-riding theme, blotting out other secular aspects.

I could go on and on, writing more about the Sangam period, it's landscape and its characteristics, but in these days of wiki and what not, I am sure you will find everything you need quite easily. If you want to read some poems online, this is a good link: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/hansens/Kuruntogai/Home.Html

Discovering the love-poems of South India has opened my eyes afresh to the beauty of the land, and the glory of its ancient people. I have been literally drowning in shringara rasa, to tell the truth. I hope you enjoy discovering Sangam literature as much I am doing now!

Monday, February 27, 2012

e-Rick in Delhi

I was at India Gate yesterday when I spotted a group of people fussing over something. There was a big reflector screen, and on one side of it, there were a group of guys standing around, setting up a shoot.

On the other side of the screen, I spotted several young guys craning their necks at something. I'm all of five feet tall, so I couldn't see past the crowd.

"What's going on?" I asked one of the guys. "Shooting chal raha hai", he said, in the satisfied manner of someone who has just stated the obvious to an idiot.

A couple of bystanders rallied around to provide more information. "Riya Sen is here" said one. "And so is Aarya Babbar", chimed another. Oh goodie, I thought, a couple of starlets. So I went up to have a closer look.

I found Riya Sen sitting around, texting someone, impervious to the hubub around her. Aarya Babbar had disappeared, no doubt to have tea somewhere. 


She was wearing a very short skirt, so the organisers had oh-so-thoughtfully placed a thermocol screen to prevent her thighs from being burnt to a crisp by the stares. And although she wore a halter neck blue thingy, she had temporarily chosen to wear a jacket to hide her shoulders. Very sensible. It's tough being a star, I tell you :)

Like all shoots, I knew there would be interminable waiting while things were set up. I didn't want to hang around with the crowd. It was a pleasant sunny winter morning, so I left Riya Sen to enjoy her texting, and wandered around a bit more.

And look what I found - the e-Rick, an electric propulsion vehicle that is supposed to usher in a new generation of rickshaws in Delhi. This is what they were filming. 


Maybe they were going to have Riya lean against this thing stylishly and say something green and politically correct :) The seats are the back are tiny, and I can only imagine what fun the audience would have if she tried to actually sit in it wearing that short skirt. 

The e-Rick, in case you want to know, is being  touted as the greenest thing the city has seen. They have a horrendously slow website, in case you want to look it up. It's full of useless animations, and you have to hunt like crazy for anything remotely useful or practical.

When is the e-Rick coming? Is is going to be used all over Delhi? We last heard about the e-Rick during the Commonwealth Games. After 20 minutes on their website, I have no clue what they are planning, but it looks like this thing is back again in a new avatar. There are many tantalising hints on the website, a long list of areas that are going to be covered in "Phase 1", and some hypothetical route maps. But like all infrastructure things in India, there is no date. Do any of you know more about this?

I am waiting to see how the city's matrons and big-bellied Sardars are going to fit their plump Punjabi bottoms into this contraption :) :) It looks like it will keel over any moment, doesn't it?

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Delhi Magic on Hindustan Times

My phone has been ringing non-stop this morning. Today's Hindustan Times carries a Delhi Magic listing. 

I'm surprised at the response, actually. Firstly, I hadn't quite realised how much power the newspapers have, even though we live in the era of television. Secondly, I didn't realise there was so much "pent-up demand" for bazaar walks among  Delhi wallas :)

We have quite a few walks coming up, so I will post some walk schedules on the Delhi Magic facebook page.

I've "cut-pasted" the relevant bits of the HT story into a single box below.



Friday, January 20, 2012

Unveiling India

I have just finished reading 'Unveiling India' by Anees Jung. The book is about Indian women, about their inner lives, about traditions and about change. 


It is a beautifully written book, almost lyrical. Words flow easily for Anees; maybe it is a gift, but maybe it is also because she really understands the women she is writing about. As a Muslim woman from Hyderabad, she is as much a part of the story as the many urban and rural women in her book.  Anecdotes about her mother and father, and the traditions she grew up with, helped me understand where she came from, so I was able to better see the country through her eyes. 

In the book, Anees visits women in many parts of India. She finds that among them there is a commonality, a shared sense of femininity and motherhood, a sense of rootedness. She senses the enormous reserves of fortitude among the women she meets. Theirs is an exploited and under-appreciated existence, but they bear it with a stubborn dignity. 

Where does this strength come from? Personally I think that it is a sense of duty, a vision of the 'ideal woman',  that gives Indian women strength. High ideals, drummed into girls from early childhood, create a self-image where sacrifice, resilience and patience are not just virtues to be cultivated, but the very essence of womanhood, the very basis of identity. Through legends and tales, through mythology and popular imagery, these ideals are internalised until they become very real. Anees talks about how her own mother, by effacing herself, by completely living for her children and family,  achieves almost a goddess-like glow. Anees envies that calm, that certainty which comes from the knowledge that you are living up to an ideal. 

As someone who has stepped out from that comfortable traditional veiled corner, Anees is both an outsider as well as an insider. A lot like me, really :) and like many of the women I know. That's why I love this book. Because Anees sees the contradictions first-hand, and she looks for answers not only from the women she meets, but also within herself.

Perhaps she romanticizes things a bit; perhaps she puts Indian women on a pedestal. Perhaps she glosses over the role of women in perpetuating exploitative and unequal systems. But it is a wonderful book nonetheless, very moving, full of imagery, and a real insight into India. It is also a book where hope triumphs, so it doesn't leave you feeling depressed at the end of it all.

Read it if you can; preferably before you visit India, and you will begin to understand what lies behind the faces that you see.

Friday, December 16, 2011

INA Market - Refuge of the Delhi Tamilian!

This small shop in INA Market is quite familiar to most South Indians living in Delhi. 

It's where you go for those little things that you can't do without - 
  • Bright yellow banana chips, fried in coconut oil and salted to perfection
  • Raw green bananas, for the avial that you crave. 
  • Green banana leaves, for serving traditional meals on festive occasions. 
  • Sweet banana fritters, deliciously smothered in jaggery and dusted with dried ginger powder. 
  • Fresh coconuts, without which no South Indian household can survive. 
  • The little shallots that all Tamilians call "sambar vengayam", when you want to make the perfect sambar to eat with pongal. 
  • A crazy bhujia-type thing called "mixture", there is no other word for it, but you'll find it served at 4:00 p.m. along with filter coffee. 
  • Copies of Kumudam, murukku and ten-kozhal, Kerala appalams, Tamil pappadams.....ah, I could go on and on!

It looks like just any other old shop. But it has its definite place in the universe :)

Not far from the shop, there is this stall, selling medu-vadas. Served hot with chutney and sambar, by a guy wearing a folded lungi, they bring a little dash of South Indian soul into Delhi!

The medu-vada guy. Go around 11 am and you'll find it served hot.
Golden-brown medu-vada, crisp on the outside, spongy on the inside, with tiny bits of green chili, ginger and pepper to surprise you when you bite into it. Sigh...pure heaven.

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Delhi Airport Metro Express

The Airport Metro Express is a great option if you want to get into the city in under 20 minutes. Works well, is not crowded, and if you don't have much luggage it is easy to manage.

From the airport there are only 4 stops on the Airport Express - Aerocity, Dhaula Kuan, Shivaji Stadium and New Delhi station (NDLS).

Unfortunately, if you exit the Metro at Shivaji Stadium (closest for Connaught Place), it is not easy to find local transport to get you to the exact place you want to go.

There are auto-rickshaws, but they are a pretty grim bunch of guys who I don't trust much. It would be really, really nice if they had a pre-paid taxi service running from the Metro stations, to get you to your home or hotel or wherever else you want to go. I didn't see any, but maybe they do? Does anyone know?

But the Airport Metro Express does look like the perfect option for backpackers who want to get to New Delhi Railway Station. The budget hotels of Paharganj are very close to the station. The hotels also offer pickup from the railway station.

Here are photos from my Delhi Airport Metro Express trip:

Boarding from the airport. The train is not exceptionally busy.
A lot of airport staff are on the train, but also you see several people with backpacks and small suitcases.

Inside the Metro Express. Note the luggage racks.

Most of the journey is underground, but for some phases the train emerges outside and you can see the city below.
I loved this photo of the Green Bus and the Green Auto :) both running on natural gas. Delhi looks very green in this photo!

And in this photo too! This is the Delhi Ridge, the green cover that protects the city!
On the horizon you can see Rashtrapati Bhavan (the President's House) and the centre of New Delhi.

In 18 minutes, I exited at Shivaji Stadium on Baba Kharak Singh Marg, near the city centre.
I didn't see any taxis or auto-rickshaws waiting outside. Maybe there is a service. If anyone knows, please tell me.

Air India passengers can check in at Shivaji Stadium.

I'm waiting to see how this Metro Express service does, and how much tourists are able to use it. I hope it works well. It is very hassle-free and quick.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

The Amazing Pickle Shop

Just behind the bathing ghats in Haridwar is a very interesting market, with all kinds of spices and pickles and herbs and what not. I spent an hour walking through this market, so now I have a zillion photos, but for today I thought I'd just share this one:

THE AMAZING PICKLE SHOP
Just *look* at all the varieties he has got!
I tried to count all the types of pickles, in tubs and bottles, but gave up when I reached 50.
If you find the image too small to see, try this facebook page: The Amazing Pickle Shop

As it turns out, I can't name most of them!! So here is my first attempt at labelling at least some of them, and I hope you guys reading this will be able to identify the rest!

And here's the second set:

As if all these achars were not enough, he had loads and loads of interesting bottles too! Pickles, murabbas, chutneys, powders, sherbets, juice extracts, “health” drinks, ayurvedic balms, and what not.
I was soooo tempted to hang around at that shop, looking at all his stuff (and tasting it!). But we we still needed to get to the ghats, so I dragged myself away. What a shame. The shopkeeper was the friendly chatty sort too. You know the type that are proud of their wares? Those are the best :) because you can get lots of info from them.

Seriously, some day I am going back again. Or at least, the next Amazing Pickle Shop that I spot, I'm going to stop and spend a happy half hour tasting and clicking and furiously scribbling notes. Oh and I'll buy myself a lassi to drink in-between tiny achaar nibbles. Heaven!

Saturday, September 24, 2011

The English are gone but...


From the intrepid Nazneen, on her solo Golden Triangle trip:
Gorgeous aerial view photos of schoolchildren queuing at Humayun's Tomb.

The queue has a strangely hypnotic quality, doesn't it? As if it has a life of its own.


I also simply *love* the way the queue is snaking its way through the centre of the Char Bagh Mughal Garden scheme.

The first Mughal Emperor Babur built many gardens, to make "that charmless and disorderly Hind (India)" feel more like home.

He was inspired by (and perhaps homesick for) the gorgeous gardens of Samarkand and Herat that he had left behind. Among the earliest things he planted in India were melons, I'm told.

In the Victoria and Albert Museum, there is a watercolour painting of Babur supervising the laying out of Bagh-e-Wafa at Kabul. It is in the Char Bagh style, and water flows merrily in the middle. The Emperor wears golden robes. There are orange-laden trees in the foreground, and birds in the sky. The brick walls enclose a little slice of paradise....


A closer look reveals that pomegranates were also among the favourites being planted. See how beautifully the fruit is detailed. There is a dove delicately perched on a pomegranate branch. The gardeners have their sleeves rolled up. Ah, the pleasures of a Mughal miniature.


As someone who dearly loves her little potted plants, and gets a great deal of pleasure from simply looking at them every day, I feel a sense of affinity with this Mongol king.


Looking at this painting, I can't help thinking that the popular image of the Mongols as "barbarians" conveniently ignores the softer and more aesthetic aspects of their life.